Feeding ducks in the park...

Sunday 25th February - the last of the long weekends


It seems rather unlikely I admit. Yet as we enjoyed our champagne brunch in the west village, I looked upon our return to London as no bad thing. Indeed, our jaunt around some of the finest places on the planet reinforced my high opinion of that dirty grey stain over the River Thames*.

The day was likely to be more successful than most; it was a Sunday, it was New York and the only thing we had to do was pick up a flight home later that evening. It was a day destined to be spent sitting, eating and drinking. After a several hours of Mimosas and some incredible Eggs Benedict, we retired to an old fashion bar to watch our remaining hours slip away through the bottom of our glasses. Perfect.

Still, it seems that such good times must often be followed by a grotty 6 hour flight. And this flight was not improved by a snowstorm on the runway and a 4 hour delay (although it meant that some cool Japanese robots arrived to blast snow off the wings). The journey would have been considerably worse had it not been for the BA flight crew who were professional and very British, in a good way.

We landed the next morning and passing through the bowels of Heathrow, we emerged, slightly dazed, into a sunny english springtime. It was not the worst of times, just the end of something really cool.


* As I write this, sitting in south London and with that great gift of hindsight, I realise that I might have been mistaken.

Holiday!

18th - 25th February: New York

The final week of our round the world trip was spent in New York. You may think that the last six months for us has been one long holiday, which in some ways is true, but we decided to treat our stay in New York as a proper holiday; i.e. stay in a hotel rather than hostel or tent, and the word 'budget' not to cross our minds or mentioned at the very least.

The mission for the week was to get decked out in some decent gear. Our first day saw temperatures dropping below freezing, with wind chills making it even colder. Even with fleeces, hat, scarf and gloves, I don't think I have ever been so cold. And there was also our vanity to think of; walking round in one of the fashion capitals of the world in our travelling gear was not a good look.

In between all our shopping expeditions (we both had to buy new suitcases at the end of the week) we also managed to squeeze in the usual tourist sights; Central Park, the Financial District, the Met and MOMA. In the evenings we made the most of staying downtown and were out every night in Greenwich, Soho, the East Village and Alphabet city enjoying cocktails, jazz (above at 55 bar), comedy, views from the Marriott revolving restaurant and everything else that New York has to offer. An awesome week.

Great Expectations

11-18th February - Yasawa Islands, Fiji

A lap around NZ was amazing but was still pretty tiring. Well actually it wasn't, but it could have been in theory and I always welcome a lie down. What we needed therefore, was a week sized slice of white sands, blue skies and palm trees.

What we got was Fiji. In the rainy season. Our boat pitched and rolled its way across the stormy seas to the volcanic Yasawa islands but we got to our resort without getting too wet.

Otto and Fanny’s was traditional Fijian old school. There were only 2 other people there when we arrived and the grass roofed bure seemed deserted. This might have been perfect, if the sky hadn’t been picking up the ocean and dropping it onto our heads. Fortunately, the food was a delicious and sociable affair and helped us forget about the mosquitoes. And when the skies did clear, the isolated beach felt like it was a million miles from anywhere.

The second half of the week was spent on Manta Ray island, which although only a few islands down the chain, could not have been further away. The new resort had fantastic accommodation, more hammocks that you could shake a coconut at and pretty good food. There was also a fantastic weekly cava ceremony (local drink that looks like muddy water), exceptional snorkling and even trips to see Manta Rays (in season).But when it came down to it, it was a resort and it could have been Spain for all the people there and the vibe created.

The land at the end of the earth

10th February - Christchurch, South Island


We've reached the end of our 2000 mile race around the two islands and are currenly residing in jail in Christchurch. Quite cosy really, though I can't help thinking that you must get ex-cons coming to have a look at their former residence.

This morning was spent in a strange little farm in the hills outside Christchurch. The guide described it as quirky and mentioned its uplifting quotations chalked all over the walls. This all sounded a bit weak to me, but I have long since learnt not to pay too much attention to my preconceptions.

And rightly so. It was the cool, countryside retreat that everyone wants, with a massive shaded verrander, long comfy seats covered in animal skins and a host of books to read. These were accompanied by fine lattes and fresh blackcurrents the size of baby fists. The gardens surrounding it were plentiful and full of cats. I did the only thing I thought appropriate and spent the following couple of hours reading a book of uplifting quotations for, as our fat friend once said, 'It is a good thing for an uneducated man to read a book of quotations'.

But I don't think he meant this one.

Unfortunately we could not stay for ever and so prepared to leave. At this point, I found a book on contemporary tree houses, some of which were clearly the way forward. I shall endeavour to own a tree at some point and then get to work.

I'm gonna eat you little fishie...

3rd February - Doubtful Sound, South Island

'Come to New Zealand and see Milford Sound'. That is, I understand, what someone said to all of those nasty, flaky, coach tours that you see tearing up the countryside on a tight schedule. Therefore, it only seemed natural to make our way down to Doubtful, Milford's more remote and less travelled buddy. Even then, there is a danger of getting on a 70 person, Yangtze cruise style vessel. No thanks.

So we took an overnight cruise on a 6 person boat captained by Chris, who was a dude. And it was probably our best 24 hrs in the country.

The sound itself (named by Cook who considered it doubtful that, were they to sail in, there would be enough wind to bring them back out) is a true pleasure. The mountains on either side rise up over 1km almost straight from the water. It is also full of wildlife including dolphins, penguins and seals.

But the most impressive thing about the cruise was the pace. As you may have gathered, we are ideally suited to taking on life at the pace of an old person and this is exactly what we got. After dropping anchor in a secluded bay, Chris prepared for us a buffet lunch which consisted of breads, salads and a mountain of freshly caught crayfish. Munch on that.

After some more sitting down and being shown more amazing aspects of the sound, we stopped for a little 'fushing'. I have had a go at this game before as a scout, but to little avail. However, it appeared that this water was more fush than water and all of us had bites after 10s of seconds of our hooks reaching the bottom. No tiddlers either as the pictures show!

The fishing took a more serious turn when Tom, our German shipmate, caught an angry looking little shark. The man sweated about 7 litres just reeling him in. Once on the ship, Chris warned us that he would 'have your foot off'; information that had us climbing the walls to get away from the prehistoric brute.

Later, as we enjoyed a meal of blue cod and mind-blowingly tender venison, Chris recounted stories of catching enormous sharks and shooting deer. All in that funny accent that Kiwis have.

There's little left to say. It was both relaxing and fantastic fun all amid some stunning scenery. If you come to the South Island, this is one other thing that you must do. You can find more information at Deep Cove Charters.

Fly by wire

4th February - Queenstown, South Island

The idea is simple; get a plane, hang it from a massive length of wire in a narrow valley and use it as a petrol powered pendulum. Simple. This seemed like an opportunity too good to miss; picturing a real-time simulation of flying a WW2 German dive bomber, though without the bombs and the strafing, I headed for the hills.

Although the plane looks quite cool and goes pretty fast, it is clearly modelled on the air boat from the opening titles of Gentle Ben. You lie on top and they hoist it up one side of the valley by its tail. By the time it reaches the top, you are hanging upside down with a swollen head as all of your blood travels south. Then it's over to you; you release the plane using one handle, open the throttle with the other and you are off!

I should stress that it is even more fun than it sounds. As you get the feel of the beast, you swing higher and higher and gain more and more weightless hang time when you make each turn at the top. It is, as someone said, a roller coaster that you drive yourself.



Even so, it is perhaps not for everyone; one girl used too much energy screaming and not enough holding onto the throttle. As a consequence she spent a lot of time swinging down backwards and didn't get the killer speed that you need to get high. If you don't like driving or computer games, then maybe stick to Thorpe Park.


Have a look at the official website here

Waterworld

Queenstown: 3rd February

Although slightly lacking in charm, Queenstown is the adventure capital of New Zealand and therefore somewhere that is on most people's itinerary. Every possible activity is on offer and if you need some dutch courage, or want to celebrate being alive after a bungy jump or three, then there are also plenty of bars willing to take your cash. If you're an adrenaline junkie, with a thirst for beer, then this is the place for you.

We had a weekend to amuse ourselves in the town and on our first day were booked in for the 'Queenstown Combo' which included a half hour ride on a jet boat and an afternoon of white water rafting.

Feeling slightly apprehensive once again, we climbed onto the jet boat on the narrow Shotover river surrounded by canyon walls.After a brief introductory talk, basically telling us to hold on tight, particularly when the driver signalled that he was about to do a 360 degree turn, we sped off for the nearest canyon wall. The boat was fast, apparently the monster guzzles two gallons of petrol a minute.

Strangely enough, I found it fun to be driven straight at canyon walls, barely missing them and spun round in this jet.

After some time of this, the driver obviously decided we were enjoying ourselves too much, and wanted to inject some fear into us. He told us to keep in our seats at all times and not put our heads up. Apparently a Japanese couple were in New Zealand for their honeymoon and also took the jet boat ride. Unfortunately, the groom was too keen a photographer and decided to sit right up to get a shot just as the boat careered alongside a jutting canyon wall. According to the fable, his head landed on her lap. This slightly freaked me out but Ed reassured me that it was nonsense. However, from then on, whenever we came right up close to the canyons, I told Ed to duck. Safety first and all that.

Next up was white water rafting on the Kawarau river. This involved a few grade 3 rapids before the final infamous dog leg rapid of grade 4. It was pretty smooth at first but the first rapid took us by surprise. All being first timers, and mostly feeble girls, we just weren't prepared for the force, and just froze; it seems unnatural at first to paddle your way into a rapid but really is the only way to get out. Being at the front of the raft, I was also the lucky one to get hit in the face front on by these waves.

No one fell in however, and by the time we reached the biggest rapid we were all powering our way in and came out intact. The weekend we were there the Shotover river was closed for rafting, but now that we've tried the slightly tamer river, I'd definitely like to give some of the more adventurous rapids a go. Just as long as I'm not at the front again of course.

3, 2, 1... jump!

Fox Glacier: 2nd February

Having spent the previous day nearby in Franz Josef where we were treated with blue skies, I had a good feeling about the planned jump. It was going to happen. On opening our tent door the morning of the jump, and greeted with fine skies again, it just had to happen. Driving to Fox Glacier, where our jump was booked, neither of us were particularly nervous. I was far more nervous, and probably more excited, in Taupo but after waiting for so long, we were both just anxious that it would finally happen. Ed didn't even treat me to a whole load more of 'what-ifs' this time round. Apparently, you should be most concerned about the plane crashing, not the actual jump. Information I just don't need.



So, turning up in shorts and flip-flops and being promptly laughed at, we changed into warmer clothing and our jump suits. Here we met Rod and Mal, our tandem partners who we'd be strapped onto and typical Kiwi adventure sports guys. They might have looked like clowns but I didn't care, just as long as they knew how to operate the parachute and land. So off we headed into the skies in our shaky, small plane. Luckily, I was distracted somewhat by a camera being shoved into my face, and more impressively the views of Mount Cook and surrounding area. When Rod pointed out that we were only half way up, at 6,000 feet, I did wonder if it was really necessary to go any higher, it looked like a long way down already. But upwards we flew. I volunteered to go first and promptly found myself hanging outside the door being told to put my thumbs up for the camera and then off we went. To be honest, I don't really remember the jump as I had no choice at that moment. The next thing I knew however, was the force of the air hitting my face as we fell to the ground at great speeds.

The actual fall strangely doesn't feel unnatural; being at such a great height, you can't see the earth and you don't experience a sensation of plummeting to the ground. 45 seconds later, the parachute was open and the free fall over. Shortly after this, we looked up to see Ed and Mal hurtling down and then suddenly their chute also being opened which was a pretty impressive sight. A few moments later however, on looking down I saw his parachute way below us between my feet and his landing. I blame the pies. He did manage to take some videos on the way down though which is more to be said than me.

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The rest of the fall was serene as we drifted down enjoying the tranquil views over the glacier. Rod then asked if I liked roller coasters, which I do. He handed me a yellow cord and told me to pull on it hard which made us suddenly turn so that we were parallel with the sky line. Pretty scary but fun. He said it was to practise steering, but I'm sure it's just something they do to the tourists to make sure that they aren't feeling too relaxed. Shortly after, the ground heading nearer, I was told to lift my legs and we had landed. Awesome.

Return to Ice Mountain

29th January - Franz Josef glacier, South Island

You may recall that our journey to Ice Mountain in China was called off due to bad weather. Well this time it was to be different. 'New Zealand' is dutch for bad weather and so rain, sleet or tsunami, the Kiwis are never put off. Except cloud maybe.

Anyway this glacier was named after the flowing, snow capped beard of FJ, the Emperor of Austria back in the 1800s. It is a good natured brute, in that it has made its way down to ground level rather than sitting on the top of a mountain a la European glaciers. This means you can almost get a taxi onto the ice.

We took a half day tour, based on our lack of time and some advice from a girl in Australia of how 'you should only do a full day on the ice if you're super fit'. Some advice should be shoved back down the mouth from where it inadvertently spurted. If you go there, you need to do a full day to make decent inroads into the ice. That said, our trip was still fantastic, and our eccentric guide AJ (an ex pro rock climber) took us to some fine, deep crevasses as you can see in the pictures.

Our trip was slightly held up by some idiot going jogging on the ice in his shorts and Nikes and getting stuck. He was lucky, the usual outcome of such tomfoolery is icy death. As we came back down, we were granted a view of how fragile the glacier can be, as some truck sized pieces of ice fell into the stream at its foot.

Hopewell

Kenepuru Sound, South Island: 28th - 30th January

"A gorgeous backpackers lodge in a dreamy beachfront setting where even a couple of nights isn't enough to fully appreciate the relaxing setting and wonderfully welcoming hosts." (Rough Guide). With such an inviting review, we decided to head into the remotest region of the Marlborough Sounds and check this place out. Turned out to be the best decision we've made in a long time.

True to form, we were warmly welcomed with tea and home made brownies, a sure fire way to get into my good books. We were then shown around; people enjoying the sea views, hot tub, hammocks, golf course covered in sheep and collecting oysters from the beach. Generally a very chilled out place to be; Ed and I settled in well.

Having spent our first day enjoying the laid back vibe, we hired out a double kayak the next morning. The sun was shining, the water calm and everything was good. We even spotted the massive dark shadow of a skate. Unfortuantely, after a short peaceful paddle, we were promptly reminded that we were in fact in New Zealand, and not heaven. The dark, grey clouds had found us and enveloped the skies once more. We managed to find ourselves on the other side of the sound, battling against the wind, with our homely retreat looking a long way off. So we quickly checked out the local ship wreck and made a start back across the sound.

Shivering away and fighting against the waves, I declared that I just didn't find kayaking fun anymore. There was no time for tantrums though, we both wanted to get back and had no choice but to paddle on. We finally reached the shore cold and tired some four hours later, but very grateful to be back home. Hot shower, and a dip in the spa, and tranquility was resumed. After so much exertion, it only seemed right to regain the balance and once again succumb to the laziness of Hopewell.

Weather permitting

23rd January - Lake Taupo, North Island


Having finally put exams behind me some 2 years ago, I was rather displeased to experience that unpleasant sensation again, over here in NZ. The reason was of course our desire to take a big fall out of a small plane.

We drove into Taupo ('Skydiving capital of the world') as the sun was going down on a clear summer evening. We had our 'fush and chups', booked our jump for the next morning and went to bed to have bad dreams of slashed canopies.

However NZ, like Scotland in so many ways, has shite weather. When I awoke, looking forward to the day's activities as one looks forward to a mouthful of smashed teeth, dirty grey clouds stretched on in all directions and the jump was duly postponed. 4 times. So we prepared to wait.

And wait we did.

We were lucky in a small way; the previous evening we had shunned staying in someone's tool shed for an expensive room with a bed the size of a tennis court. And being restless but overidingly lazy people, we watched rubbish TV, read and dozed for the rest of the day.

The weather never did clear. After a day and a half of waiting, we left the 'Skydiving capital of the world' cursing our bad luck and vowing to take the next sunny opportunity to jump, wherever it may be.

We drove south to see Mount Doom instead, but that was also hidden by the bad weather. Damn you clouds!

Extreme sports!

22nd - 23rd January 2006: Rotorua, North Island

Rotorua is a popular tourist destination due to it's geothermal activities and lake. Our reason for heading straight there however was to try out the infamous Kiwi-originated past time of zorbing. This basically involves rolling down a hill in a pvc sphere. It's that simple and stupid; only the kiwis could have thought up something like it. The original zorb has you strapped up inside the sphere but unfortunately, due to unfavourable weather conditions, something we'd become used to hearing, this option was unavailable. We could however try out hydro zorbing. In this case you are in the sphere strapless and more than one person can go down in the same sphere at the same time. And as the name suggests, they also throw in a load of water for good measure just to ensure that you can't treat it like a giant hamster wheel and try to run your way down the hill. As soon as you start moving you fall flat on your backside.

It will probably come as no great surprise to you all, but I'm a bit of a scaredy cat and was pretty apprehensive at the thought of being thrown around this sphere, especially now with the added prospect of my face meeting Ed's elbow. However, as soon as we started rolling down, sliding about the place, I was sent into a fit of giggles. Zorbing is just plain silly. Luckily neither of us experienced a misplaced elbow or foot in the mouth either which helped. So, the next time you're in the area then definitely give it a go; they also do it in Dorset so there's no excuse...


As mentioned, Rotorua is famous for it's geothermal activity. The country is located on the so called 'ring of fire' where the earth is in a constant state of upheaval. This is most evident in Rotorua, being on New Zealand's volcanic plateau where geothermal activity is pronounced. So, on our second day, we decided to take it easy and join the rest of the tourists by visiting Hell's Gate, apparently the most active geothermal field in the region. Firstly we had a walk round the area where we saw steaming fumaroles, erupting mud volcanoes (pictured) and cooking pools. The place was hot. And smelly.

We then 'treated' ourselves to a mud bath. According to the brochure, the mud promotes the regeneration of skin cells, detoxifies and purifies and assists in the prevention and elimination of acne. Not sure if any of that is true and I don't think either of us noticed a difference in our skin but I found it surprisingly enjoyable wallowing in the warm murky water. Unfortunately, we were then forced under cold showers (to close our pores, or so they said, kiwis just seem to enjoy pain) before indulging in a hot sulphur bath. So, all in all, a pleasant day. Just a shame that we smelt of eggs for a good few days afterwards. Not recommended as part of a pre-first date beauty regime, that's for sure.

Black water

21st January - Waitomo, North Island

I am rather fond of the term Black water. In my mind it elicits images of places like Moria, the River Styx or the underwater lake in the Adams Family mansion. Predictably, our experience was rather more NZ than mythical underworld. Nonetheless, it was an excellent way to waste a few hours.

We were told about it by a girl we met in Vietnam. 'It's amazing, you're in a tube floating under rocks covered in glow worms'. If that's not a hook, I don't know what is. But when we arrived, we realised that we knew little else of what we had signed up for and I admit there was a little apprehension about the 'jumping off waterfalls' part. What can I say, it was our first outdoor activity in NZ. And we're both chick-chick-chicken!

After getting kitted out with inner tube, wetsuit and a pair of rubber boots that wouldn't have been out of place in a Village People promo, we were lead down to the practice area to do some jumps. What we saw was a jetty about 12ft above an uncomfortably shallow stream. Jump of that, backwards, with the tube around you ass. I think not.

As it happens, the upper jetty was used only when the river was very high and we jumped of the lower one, some 2-3ft above the water. I can confirm that this 'booty first' method of jumping into water is about as good as it gets, as it involves lots sitting down on comfy rubber furniture.

Once we eventually ducked out of the afternoon sun and entered the caves, the real experience began. With our head torches illuminating a little of the person in front, we staggered like drunkards, feeling our way forward. After numerous twists and turns, we reached our first waterfall and a tame jump later, our chance to slowly drift away into the darkness. As we ventured further, the cave roof began to rise to form an underground canyon. And it is here were thousands of glow worms cover the ceiling like stars, sending down a soft green light.

Unlike many of the others in our group, I attempted to lie down on my tube. Although this may sound ill conceived, it is the best way to go. By holding your body straight you can lie flat and comfortably look straight up and drift away. Admittedly, you cannot see where you are going and I stoved my head into a couple of rocks on the way, but small price to pay in my eyes.

After we emerged from the caves, the last leg of our journey was simply to float down the stream to the bus. The majority paddled in the shallow waters, but one village idiot at the back lay flat, looking up at the clouds with his mouth open. This is what Sunday afternoons should be all about.

Good work geeks!

Only left Australia just over a week ago and have already finished our postings. Might have something to do with all the rain we've been having since getting to New Zealand... nonetheless, make it worthwhile - take a look (there are new ones as far back as mid December!) and get adding those comments!

The Rock

15th - 18th January: Uluru

When booking our round the world tickets, we were told that we could fly to Ayers rock (and back) for no extra cost as we had available air miles. On checking with reliable sources that it was a good place to visit, and since it was 'free', we thought we might as well take a look. As you all no doubt know, Uluru, also known as Ayers Rock, is the large sandstone rock formation in central Australia.

Having had some grey weather recently, and in need of some sun before flying to New Zealand, we were looking forward to getting to the desert. Everyone guaranteed we'd find a lot of sun there, if maybe too much. However, on disembarking our plane, we were greeted with rain. No chance of topping up that tan then. Oh well, there were more important things to see and do.

We met our tour group shortly after and were taken to some of the main sights in the afternoon; the Cultural Centre, the Valley of the Winds and Kata Tyuta before heading to the Ayers Rock sunset viewing area. Uluru is notable for appearing to change colour as the light strikes it at different times of the day, with sunset being particularly remarkable. Unfortunately, along with many other bus loads of tourists, we weren't to see this remarkable sight, as no light was getting through those impenetrable clouds. No worries though, we were being fed tasty cheese and fizzy wine and had high hopes for sunrise.

So, up early in the dark the next day at the unsociable hour of 4am, we were taken to the sunrise viewing area. Again we were joined by many tourists, though not the hordes from the evening before. They obviously had something better to do, like sleep. Again we waited, seemingly in vain, to witness the changing colour of the rock. After an hour or so, just when we had nearly given up hope and wished we were still in bed with the rest of them, the sun broke through the clouds and hit our target. It really was a remarkable sight. As you can see from the photo, and the comparative one from the night before, the rock did glow. Luckily we managed to get a few shots in before the cloud covered over again but the wait was definitely worth the wait.


With our spirits lifted, we did the 10km base tour of Uluru and later met our guide to be shown some of the more interesting sights in the rock; including the 'kitchen', 'school' and 'nursery'. We were also shown many original Aboriginal drawings in the rock and where many of the legends originated from.

Unfortunately, here our tour ended, as the rest of the group were heading back up to Alice Springs via King's Canyon. And for us, due to some bad planning, we had the next two evenings and day to lounge in the rip-off resort. It wasn't all bad though as there was a pool and live music. Kind of cheesy but good entertainment nonetheless.

Bush tucker

14th January - Sydney, NSW

Picture the scene if you will; the sun hurries westward, the shadows lengthen, a girl in a funky dress and a long armed tramp search for food. They drop into McDo to use the free bathroom facilities. They pause as they pass Subway to discuss the merits of 'foot-long food'. They enter the atrium of one of Sydney's taller skyscrapers and take the lift to the 43rd floor.

After enjoying a glass of sparkling wine, they tuck into paella spiced ocean trout with caramelised tomato tart and candied garlic eggplant. They sip their crisp white wine and watch the world go by as the restaurant slowly rotates. The cheap-food-in-expensive-resto offer wins out again.

Still, these things cannot last forever. The express lift smoothly brings them back down to earth and minutes later they are seen sitting on a park bench sharing their McFlurry dessert. Order is restored.

City by the sea

10th January - Sydney

After Bris, it was straight down to Sydney care of Virgin Blue, Branson's cheap ass airline. Although Bris was pleasant in its SimCity way, this was a seriously good city.

Full of all of the nonsense that Australians love, such as trees, parks and sports facilities, it has an ultra modern feel. It even has a monorail, although admittedly its junk, like something from a 70's Doctor Who episode. But at the same time, the city appears to have all of the culture and diversity that you need if you want anything interesting to do.


Understandably we had a glimpse at all of the main sights, although nothing really appealed. Indeed the pleasure of our stay was in just strolling around the city, taking in the strange mix of architecture and wasting our time. Incidentally, more cities should be built on this much water.

On our first visit, we were met by hoards of Barmy Army fans, who were quite understandably pissed in all senses of the word. Although this gave the city a bit of a Prince of Wales Road feel, I did see one mildly amusing t shirt, which no doubt you have seen already.

We stayed in a number of different hostels, but the preferred one was in Darlinghurst. Just down the road from Kings Cross, its full of restaurants and bars and rich kids. It felt a little like Fulham, although not quite as unpleasant and perhaps with a hint of originality. The whole valley to the east of the city centre is full of cool low rise buildings, trees and would be an awesome place to live.

We also went to Bondi where I was comprehensively beaten by the waves.

The Blue Mountains

A two hour drive west of Sydney lie the Blue Mountains. Despite the name suggesting otherwise, they are in fact not a range of mountains, but a series of sandstone structures and cliffs. The name doesn't completely misguide you however. Viewed from a distance, they do have a bluish tinge which we were told is caused by the release of volatile oils from eucalyptus forests covering these 'mountains'.


Our group was split into two, those who wanted an easy day and to be be driven round the cliffs to the viewpoints, and those who were feeling more energetic and were to walk the cavern floor. We happened to be in the latter. Our guide Nigel quickly got rid of one member of the proposed group because he didn't think he could take the heat and also didn't have the right footwear. Initially I thought this was pretty harsh and felt sorry for the vicar but by the end of the walk and climb I agreed with Nigel, there was no way he could have scrambled his way over boulders through creeks in his church shoes. I was wearing walking shoes (something I prefer not to do but on this occasion it was for the best) and lets just say that I was glad they were waterproof.

Another deception was Nigel. Despite looking like someone who's spending his semi-retirement years eating delicious Aussie pies, even to his own admission, he was fit. Very fit indeed. The way he bounded up and down those cliffs would have impressed even our own 'Mountain goat' Amit. Nigel would certainly have raced him on our 3 peak challenge last year and probably won.

After the first look out across the valley we were taken down into and along the cavern floor. It was pretty impressive scenery and many types of plant, and some wildlife, were pointed out. We were also repeatedly told to keep an eye out for snakes as they are common in the area. Only the other day the other guide didn't spot one right in front of him until it jumped across his face. Nigel seem disappointed that we didn't come across any but I'm pretty sure that I wasn't the only who was glad of this.

On our second day we decided to take the easier, more touristy option and visit two of the Jenolan caves. These are a spectacular series of limestone caves that are regarded as some of the world's best. We had a tour for 90 minutes in the Lucas and Orient caves and saw an array of stalactites, stalagmites, shawls and straws, many looking like various structures including organs, people and even a cathedral. The cavern described as the cathedral is actually used today for recitals and weddings. I'm still not sure whether that's tacky or not, unusual though to say the least.