Black water

21st January - Waitomo, North Island

I am rather fond of the term Black water. In my mind it elicits images of places like Moria, the River Styx or the underwater lake in the Adams Family mansion. Predictably, our experience was rather more NZ than mythical underworld. Nonetheless, it was an excellent way to waste a few hours.

We were told about it by a girl we met in Vietnam. 'It's amazing, you're in a tube floating under rocks covered in glow worms'. If that's not a hook, I don't know what is. But when we arrived, we realised that we knew little else of what we had signed up for and I admit there was a little apprehension about the 'jumping off waterfalls' part. What can I say, it was our first outdoor activity in NZ. And we're both chick-chick-chicken!

After getting kitted out with inner tube, wetsuit and a pair of rubber boots that wouldn't have been out of place in a Village People promo, we were lead down to the practice area to do some jumps. What we saw was a jetty about 12ft above an uncomfortably shallow stream. Jump of that, backwards, with the tube around you ass. I think not.

As it happens, the upper jetty was used only when the river was very high and we jumped of the lower one, some 2-3ft above the water. I can confirm that this 'booty first' method of jumping into water is about as good as it gets, as it involves lots sitting down on comfy rubber furniture.

Once we eventually ducked out of the afternoon sun and entered the caves, the real experience began. With our head torches illuminating a little of the person in front, we staggered like drunkards, feeling our way forward. After numerous twists and turns, we reached our first waterfall and a tame jump later, our chance to slowly drift away into the darkness. As we ventured further, the cave roof began to rise to form an underground canyon. And it is here were thousands of glow worms cover the ceiling like stars, sending down a soft green light.

Unlike many of the others in our group, I attempted to lie down on my tube. Although this may sound ill conceived, it is the best way to go. By holding your body straight you can lie flat and comfortably look straight up and drift away. Admittedly, you cannot see where you are going and I stoved my head into a couple of rocks on the way, but small price to pay in my eyes.

After we emerged from the caves, the last leg of our journey was simply to float down the stream to the bus. The majority paddled in the shallow waters, but one village idiot at the back lay flat, looking up at the clouds with his mouth open. This is what Sunday afternoons should be all about.